Another project post! Huzzah! The post will provide some detail on how I installed my Yaesu FT-1900 into my truck. Unfortunately, I only thought about cataloging the install after I had completed, so you only get finished project pictures instead of the fun, chaos-filled everything-ripped-apart pictures.
I finally got my Ham license back in January, which I discussed in this post. Now that I’m out of school and have some real free time, I’ve been using my amateur radio equipment on a regular basis. I’ve been volunteering a lot, having joined the Maricopa County Emergency Communication Group, and have been helping out with event communications. As the heat has finally begun to recede, the number of outdoor events has begun to skyrocket; the MCECG has been supporting 4 or 5 events a weekend since mid-October. A number of these events happen out in the dessert or mountains, requiring 4×4 access which a lot of hams don’t have.
Well, I just happened to have an extremely fun 4×4 truck. And I just happen to have a 2m mobile ham radio. Sounds like the perfect combination. My job grants me every other Friday off, so I decided to take one of those days and install the radio.
It took me the better part of the day, but it was totally worth it. I have a clean, awesome looking radio install in my truck that works beautifully. This first post will discuss the project planning. Subsequent posts will discuss details and implementation.
Stage 1: Planning
I cannot stress this enough. When doing any project, especially one with something as complex as a vehicle, there is no substitute for a good plan. There are a lot of things to think about when installing a radio in a vehicle. Where is the antenna going to go? Where will I get power? Where will I run the cables? Where will I mount the radio? Pervasive throughout all of these questions is safety. That’s a good spot, but is it safe? Is it close to any moving parts? How hot does that get? What about when the vehicle is moving?
For most amateur radio equipment, you will want to pull your 12 V lines for power straight off of the battery. This provides a couple of benefits:
- A clean (less-noisy) power source. You don’t want your alternator or spark plugs throwing EMI down the supply line into your radio. Best case you’ll get static in your TX and RX, worse case you could damage some of your more sensitive equipment. By tapping straight off of the battery and going directly to the radio, you are utilizing the battery as a very large, very stable capacitor; this will act as a filter to limit all that EMI coming from the rest of the vehicle’s components.
- Ensures a safe current path. Most amateur mobile radios are often capable of putting out anywhere from 25 W to 100 W. That requires a fair bit of current. By pulling straight from the battery, you can ensure that you are using the correct gauge of wire for your current draw. The last thing you want is to key up your radio and have your wires melt; this is a very dangerous fire hazard.
For planning this project, I broke it down into 3 primary phases: antenna, power and radio. I will discuss the planning for each phase of this project in this post, watch for subsequent posts to describe implementation and details.
Antenna Planning
This first thing I started this project with was the antenna. Where was I going to mount it? What kind of antenna? How was I going to route the antenna feed line into the cab and to the radio? As with any project, I started with research. For any vehicle, the optimal location for any antenna is the dead center of the roof. This yields the largest possible height for any antenna while providing a large ground plane. After that, the other possible locations for my truck are hood/fender mounts, door mounts, mirror mounts, glass mounts, bed mounts and tailgate mounts. Talk about your choices.
I started with a few restrictions to help narrow down my search. First, I use my truck a lot. Not just for commuting but I love going camping, hiking, off-roading, mudding, trail blazing and all kinds of other fun things you can do with a 4×4 with big tires. Whatever antenna mount I end up with has to be sturdy and not get in the way with any activity I do. The second restriction is tied along with the first. I use the truck a lot, which means I’m constantly throwing stuff in and out of the bed. People, gear, trash, furniture, groceries, you name it. I don’t want any antenna getting in the way of that.
This limited me to antenna mounts on the cab and forward. Of course, I would want the best performance, so the first thing I considered was the roof mount. The most popular roof mounts utilize a NMO connector with requires a 3/4 inch hole. Hmm, that’s kind of a large whole to drill in the roof of my truck. Then I would need to route the antenna feed line down the ceiling of my truck, behind the seat and to the radio. Not exactly the cleanest looking install. I also would need to consider weatherproofing; don’t want water coming in the roof. There is also height to consider. My truck already sports oversize tires and a lift, adding a tall antenna to that will pretty much guarantee I’ll have problems parking, not to mention hitting trees and bushes.
That leaves fender and mirror mounts. I ruled mirror and door mounts out right away. I didn’t want an antenna whipping around every time someone opened or closed a door. I started looking a fender mounts, handling a feeling a number of them before decided on the K412 SNMO mount from Diamond Antenna. This first thing I noticed about this thing was the weight. No aluminum here, this puppy is made from solid black anodized steel.
This mount uses the NMO connector many roof antennas use, allowing a wide variety of antennas to choose from. It is adjustable in three dimensions, allowing the user to achieve a nice, vertically aligned antenna on any surface. Normally I’m against adjustable mounts, as I’ve seen them fail and slip time and time again. But this mount has teeth for each joint, preventing slip even when not tight. The user has to undo the bolts and physically separate the parts to adjust them.
The next step was to look for an antenna. I didn’t want to add too much to the overall height of my truck, so I was looking for antennas under a meter. I also wanted a dual band 2m/70cm antenna. My FT-1900 is only a 2m radio, but I am planning on replacing it soon with a FT-8800, which will do both bands with cross-band repeat and I didn’t want to buy a new antenna. I ended up purchasing the SBB5NMO 146/446MHz Dual Band antenna made by Comet. Not only does it meet my requirements, but also posts a VSWR less than 1.5 and an impressive gain in both bands. It can also handle the power my FT-1900 and future FT-8800 are capable of putting out. Plus its black anodized finish matched the mount and the overall motif of my truck
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Power Planning
The next thing to plan was the route my power cables would take from my battery in the engine compartment to the radio inside the cab. My initial thought was to find other cables making this transition through the firewall and piggyback on to them. After a hour of poking around with a flashlight and disassembling my console and dashboard, I decided this wasn’t going to happen. All of the wire harnesses running through the firewall were tightly bundled and sealed against heat and moisture. Definitely not something I wanted to screw with. I started looking at other ways to get wire into the cab. After coming up with nothing I began searching around on-line and made a discovery. A large number of components in vehicles have to be screwed in from underneath, particularly mounts for seats. As such, there a numerous holes underneath my truck that allowed manufacture assembly access that are then sealed with rubber plugs. A quick trip under my truck provided me with a number of possible entry points into my cab. I could route the lines down out of the engine, along the vehicle frame and into the cab from under neath. Excellent.
The other important thing to consider in the power planning was wire. You need to use the right gauge for the current draw. My owner’s manual for my FT-1900 indicates that my radio draws approximately 13 A at 12V DC when transmitting at max power. Thus, I had to make sure to use 12 AWG wire rated for automotive use. I also need 15A fuses and fuse holders to protect the radio from my truck and my truck from my radio in case anything goes wrong with either. Thankfully, Yaesu provides the fuse holders with the purchase of the radio.
Radio Planning
Where the put the radio. It needs to be easily accessible when station and moving, yet not distracting. When not in use it needs to be out of sight. I wanted a clean looking install without wires dangling about and I didn’t want to see the antenna feed line or power line at all. Unlike some of the newer, more advanced models, my FT-1900 does not have detachable head capability. This allows you to install the bulk of the radio out of sight while mounting the slim control face plate someplace convenient. After 30 minutes of fidgeting and gather second opinions, I decided the only place the radio really fit and met all my requirements was in the center console. And even then just barely.
Coming next post: Installing and photos!






